Liralen Li (liralen) wrote,
Liralen Li
liralen

Lazy Mermaid Fingerless Gloves

During the trip I was working on some fingerless mitts from the Noro Kureyon Sock 150s that I bought in Vermont. I love Cookie A.'s Pomatomus Socks, ever since sarakate pointed me at them years and years ago when she wanted yarn done the opposite way in order to make scales that went the opposite way with twisted knit stitches that twisted the opposite way. Whew. But when making fingerless mitts, I just didn't have the patience for a full 72 stitches on US size 0 needles (2mm for those that use more sane systems of needle measurement) with a yarn that wasn't going to wear that well.

One interesting thing was finding that Noro Sock is spun the opposite way of most knitting yarn. *laughs* After all that effort trying to get the other yarn spun the other way, it was funny finding that this *came* that way. It's why it fulls so beautifully after it's knit.

So I went in and did my usual mucking about and came up with not just a 48 stitch on US 2s (2.75 mm) variety, but I'm also working on one with scales that go the other way. And maybe just sub'ing in a k2tog for the ssks would work, but I didn't like that that didn't have the original symmetry of the original design. So I mirrored the stitch design to go the other way, too.

STOP SNICKERING. I know, I know, I said I was too *lazy* to do 72 stitches and here I am completely redesigning the stitch... mea culpa, mea culpa, and then I added injury to insult and used the Kitchner Stitch bind off.



First set without the right sweeping scales:

Lazy Mermaid MittsLazy Mermaid Mitts

The usual data:
US 2 (2.75mm)
Fingering weight yarn, I used Noro Kueryon Sock, color way 150s. ~24 st/3.25 in. in ss, these are small enough that small variations in gauge are okay.

To do these, just CO 48 stitches, do (purl, knit-through-the-back of the stitch (ktb from now on)) around. I did a cable cast-on, did the ribbing across and then joined, you can join and just rib if you prefer, but start with a purl. To make it really easy to follow the stitch pattern, just put 12 stitches on each needle, that's one repeat. If you, as I do, prefer working with three needles to four, I put two repeats on one needle and one repeat on each of the other two.

For both of the mitts pictured above, I did Cookie's Chart A once through and did the slipping of stitches that she does to get ready for the next round. Then I started chart B on the two repeat needle and just did ss on the two smaller needles for 11 rows (through the first half of the chart). Then I increased every other row on either side of the first 3 stitches of the ss field for the right mitt. For the left mitt, I increased every other row on either side of the LAST 3 stitches of the ss field and used the ktb, purl rib for the thumb gusset to keep it separate from the ss field. I kept increasing around the thumb and ss'ing and Chart B'ing for the last half of the chart. When it was done, I had 15 stitches extra for the thumb, and I put them all on a piece of yarn and just put three half-hitches on the receiving needle to fill in the gap.

Then I continued with Chart B for rows 1-5 on the back and the ss on the front, and on the transition to row 6 I started doing a (purl, ktb) rib across the ss field while continuing with Chart B through row 11. Then I just ribbed all the way round for another five rows before doing a kitchner bind off at the top, a normal bind off works as well, but I liked the look and stretch of the kitchner bind off. I'll admit I didn't do the two setup rows, either... as I said... lazy.

I then picked up the fifteen stitches and another five along the cast on gap (3 that were cast on and one loop to either side to fill in the gap), 20 stitches in all. I did five rows of (purl, ktb) ribbing and then bound off.

For two mitts with opposite rolling scallops, just use the A and B chart below for the LEFT mitt, but follow the same instructions otherwise. The original charts are good for the right mitt.

[Edited to add: For a detailed instruction set and picture of the opposing scallops go to this entry.]

Chart A
- = purl
x = ktb
/ = k2tog
o = yarn over

 
/ox-x-x-x-x-  22
/xo-x-x-x-x-  21
/-xox-x-x-x-  20
/x-xo-x-x-x-  19
/-x-xox-x-x-  18
/x-x-xo-x-x-  17
/-x-x-xox-x-  16
/x-x-x-xo-x-  15
/-x-x-x-xox-  14
/x-x-x-x-xo-  13
/-x-x-x-x-xo  12
ox-x-x-x-x-/  11
o-x-x-x-x-/x  10
ox-x-x-x-/-x  9
o-x-x-x-/x-x  8
ox-x-x-/-x-x  7
o-x-x-/x-x-x  6
ox-x-/-x-x-x  5
o-x-/x-x-x-x  4
ox-/-x-x-x-x  3
o-/x-x-x-x-x  2
o/-x-x-x-x-x  1

Chart B (symbols are the same as for A) Except for... * = k2tog the first time and then k3tog the second time through.
/ox-x-x-x-x-/ox-x-x-x-x-x 22 /xo-x-x-x-x-/xo-x-x-x-x-x 21 /-xox-x-x-x-/-xox-x-x-x-x 20 /x-xo-x-x-x-/x-xo-x-x-x-x 19 /-x-xox-x-x-/-x-xox-x-x-x 18 /x-x-xo-x-x-/x-x-xo-x-x-x 17 -x-x-xox-x-/-x-x-xox-x-x 16 -x-x-xo-x-/x-x-x-xo-x-/x 15 -x-x-xox-/-x-x-x-xox-/-x 14 -x-x-xo-/x-x-x-x-xo-/x-x 13 -x-x-xo/-x-x-x-x-xo/-x-x 12 -x-x-/ox-x-x-x-x-/ox-x-x 11 -x-x-/xo-x-x-x-x-/xo-x-x 10 -x-x-/-xox-x-x-x-/-xox-x 9 -x-x-/x-xo-x-x-x-/x-xo-x 8 -x-x-/-x-xox-x-x-/-x-xox 7 -x-x-/x-x-xo-x-x-/x-x-xo 6 ox-x-/-x-x-xox-x-/-x-x-x 5 o-x-/x-x-x-xo-x-/x-x-x-x 4 ox-/-x-x-x-xox-/-x-x-x-x 3 o-/x-x-x-x-xo-/x-x-x-x-x 2 o*-x-x-x-x-xo/-x-x-x-x-x 1
Tags: knitting
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